Introduction
Northcote has been on my radar for many years. I knew it when it was Northcote Manor and I’ve enjoyed a few meals there, but never stayed. But recently (October 2024) I was invited to sample the food again and stay overnight.
The chef
Lisa Goodwin-Allen has been at Northcote forever but does not rest on her laurels. When I first tried her food, many years ago, I was impressed with her creativity and delicate touch. The restaurant gained its first star in 1996, and the kitchen has held it ever since. Lisa joined in 2001. Since the early days the business has expanded to include large functions, a busy lunch service, the chef’s table service, cookery lessons and TV work. Lisa has been both a competitor, winner and a regular judge on Great British Menu.
Flavour first
Lisa is a down to earth Lancashire woman who wants to put the finest flavours on your plate. This she says comes from top ingredients – she works closely with all her suppliers, many of whom have served the kitchen for years – and to be as local as possible. She stressed how important teamwork is and I think this practice is followed through throughout the hotel. Certainly, the service appeared seamless, and the many young members of staff appear very well trained.
Listen to your customers
Some chefs can be a bit inflexible with their menus, but Lisa is open to catering for special diets (she has a shellfish allergy herself) and appears to listen to what her customers want. This was illustrated to me at our recent meeting, when a customer saw her and came over and thanked her for cooking her fish in a special way. It’s obvious customers return again and again. The hospitality industry is in such straights at the moment – and Northcote is tucked away in a small hamlet – so repeat customers must be essential.
The Food
Our evening meal was flawless: aperitifs in the lounge and a peruse of the menu, then into the pleasant dining room, overlooking the gardens, with starched white cloths, comfortable chairs and well-spaced tables.
With our tasting menu, there is an option of wine flights, or one can choose a bottle. I was pleased to see alcohol free wines as a flight option, so I chose that. My partner spoke with the sommelier and chose a large glass of red.
We both opted for the vegetarian option. Lisa produces among the best vegetarian food I have tasted: as good as Gautier Soho and Denis Cotter in Cork.
Forest mushroom parfait had a fabulous balance of flavour and texture: the silky mushrooms, the sharp walnut, the flaky bread. And then we had both globe and Jerusalem artichokes, one a puree, one lightly grilled with a gremolata of lemon and parsley, all beautifully presented and almost too pretty to eat. The slow roast onion with coriander was followed by butternut tortellini, with beetroot and caramelised squash. Delicate; flavourful and delicious. In fact, the whole meal was plant based, which is an incredible feat of chef mastery. The final flourish was the winter leaves, a luscious arrangement of Valrhona chocolate leaves with sesame biscuits and reminiscent of a chocolatey hedgehog. With coffee to follow, the meal was a total success.
The accommodation
We were in the garden lodge, a modern annexe a few steps from the main hotel. Our room on the first floor had a large balcony overlooking the garden, with stout wooden table and chairs.
The spacious room had everything one could want, and was spick and span: large bed, quality linen and pillows, a sofa and two armchairs, a living flame fireplace, a large screen TV, reading lamps, desk lamps, bedside lamps. In the wardrobe was a coffee making machine and some homemade biscuits. There were a couple of non-descript pictures on the walls and the colour scheme was grey, brown and beige.
The bed sported too many cushions, as is standard practice these days. Some effort had been made to add pops of colour, with a few pink satin cushions, but alas, the room lacked that keen design element that some places do so well. And as for glass topped tables; unless you are a coke addict, who needs them? I also dislike carpet in the room; I much prefer something that is easier to clean, such as wood or laminate or even tiles.
The bathroom was great, with heated towel rails, fluffy towels, quality toiletries (although in those small, single use plastic bottles) a large tub and rainfall shower.
I was told the hotel is for sale and with more investment, I’m sure these rooms could dazzle, rather like the rooms do at a Rocco Forte or at Manoir aux Quat Saisons.
Just to reiterate, our room was not bad at all; it just didn’t wow me like the food and service did.
The morning
Breakfast was superb and it’s up there with the Capri Palace and Villa Cora in Florence. I don’t know how they managed to top our fantastic evening meal, but they did. There’s a lovely choice and the food, as with dinner, is beautifully served.
I had homemade Bircher muesli followed by eggs Benedict and my partner chose smoked salmon followed by baked beans on sourdough toast. We had a pot of freshly prepared coffee each and were left to enjoy our feast at leisure.
After breakfast I bought a slightly cheesy mug with ‘I wish I was at Northcote’ on it, and much of the time when I’m working and drinking tea from it, yes, I do.
Only a tad over an hour’s drive from Manchester, it’s the perfect place for a celebration break.
Bottom line: A foodie paradise, not stuffy, a lovely winter treat.
With thanks to Northcote for hosting me. (Photos are quick discreet snaps taken with my smartphone – I don’t wish to disturb other guests.)
Top tip: They have Sunday specials in the quieter months; a good way to get to know the hotel at reduced rates.
October 2025